This is a phrase I first learned of when I was 15 years old and took a history course on World War I and World War II, and so it stopped me dead in my tracks yesterday when I went down to the Ponte del Pigneto to photograph a newly installed artwork...

In Largo Preneste you’ll find this wall covered with plaques all exclaiming “per grazia ricevuta, which I believe translates loosely into “by god’s grace.” There is an altar to the Virgin Mary as well, like the ones I’ve written about before, so I suppose...

You might just look at this photo and see an iron R, but it’s much more than that. This is a very special R. One crafted by artist Rub about one year ago. This R kicked off the word Ratzinger, yes for the current Pope, which was crafted out of iron and hung on the Ponte Casilino on...